Sunday, April 13, 2008

It's just your jive-talkin' that gets in the way...

One of my least favorite things about traveling are those times that it feels like everything is a negotiation. This certainly isn't unique to India, but it's something that comes up quite a lot here. Rarely is the price-given the actual price, and it is the rare transaction that occurs without some conversation to decide how much money should actually change hands. This is often complicated by the fact that I'm not really sure what the value of a particular service or goods really is. Sometimes this is frustrating, as when the autorickshaw driver quotes you a fare you know to be a good three times over what's typical. Sometimes it's laughable, as when the teenage boy at the snack bar at the railway station looks up as if deep in thought when you ask him the price of a package of crackers and then tells you in all serious, "80 rupees" before you notice the clearly marked "8 rupees" price marked on the packet. (Even he laughed when I pointed this out.) I know there's a balance here (and in so many other places) between paying a "fair" price (whatever that might mean) and being/feeling ripped off. There are times I have caught myself starting to argue over what amounts to a few cents and felt pretty embarrassed. I wonder what it will be like though to return to a "fixed-price market" after all these many months of traveling through places where there is little you can't bargain for? On the one hand I think it will be a relief to just know the sticker price (however inflated or ridiculous) is the price, but I wonder if there won't be times that I'm tempted to say, "Come on, seriously. What if I buy 3? Discount?"

I don't mean to imply that this bargaining never works in my favor either... when Tracey and I arrived in Darjeeling on Friday, we went wandering around looking for a room. We stopped at a place that looked well out of our price-range and decided to just check "for a laugh". The woman told us she had a double room for 1300 rupees (about 30 dollars). "Oh, we were hoping for something more in the 500 rupee range," Tracey says. "It's her birthday tomorrow!" I chime in (this was TRUE, by the way). The woman looks at us for a moment, and says, "Let me check." After a few minutes she comes back to the door and says, "OK!". OK. Huh. Go figure. So we scored on a sweet room at the Highlander Inn that would have a spectacular view of the Himalayas if the clouds would ever clear. I guess you can't have it all.

Spending a few days in the misty mountains of Darjeeling sipping tea and walking up and down hills before heading to Jabalpur on Wednesday night to visit Kanha National Park, supposed setting of Rudyard Kipling's "The Jungle Book". In true cheeseball fashion, I have bought a copy of the book to read on the train on the way there. Fingers crossed that I see a tiger, please.

New pictures up at flickr too, if you're interested.

More soon!

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Ian here again. If you see a tiger, you'll have done what I have never accomplished. I loved your thoughts on the bargaining!! I once went to a fair with Vicki and I offered to buy a picture for 50 dollars that was marked 80. Vicki being the quintessential American, smacked me and told me to respect the Artist' work. I grudgingly shelled out 80 dollars for the picture and when he was wrapping it up, I caught him grinning, I asked him why and if it was related to the bargaining and if I had persisted, I would have gotten it for less right? and he nodded. vicki was flabbergasted! To lessen your guilt, think about it this way, you worked hard for the money so work equally hard to keep all your money! Indian are notorious savers!

Anonymous said...

Josie,

I remember a story my sister told about buying a pair of sunglasses with you in Paris many years ago. If your aunt could only see you up close in action now. I am sure she would be impressed!

Have fun!

Love,

Dad