Despite rising rates for tourist at national parks throughout India, I am happy to report that a budget "backpacker" such as myself can indulge in 2 half-day safaris, 2 nights accommodation and full board for the duration(that means all your meals, in case you're not up on the lingo) for just a smidge over $50. It blows the budget from an average daily expenses point of view, but I suppose I could hardly say it was expensive, you know, in the scheme of things...
The safari was great. It has to be one of the highlights of the trip, and yet another on that long list of moments that have left me thinking, Who gets to do this??? And I know you're all waiting to hear the big news.... and, YES! I did see a tiger. Only one, and he was far enough away that I'll probably have to point him out to you in the picture I got. But come on, I saw a real live tiger. Shere Khan in his own stomping grounds. Oh, I finished The Jungle Book. It's probably a shame to say this, but I much preferred the eponymous Disney film. It's hard to beat, if only just for the soundtrack. By the by, did you know that all those character names (Baloo, Shere Khan, Bagheera, etc.) are derived from the actual names of those particular animals in Hindi? Not so much Prince Louie, I don't think.
Tiger sightings aside, adding another interesting layer to the safari experience was "German George" or "George of the Jungle" as I took to referring to him when he wasn't around. Self-proclaimed conservationist and lover of tigers ("tigers are my god"), George shared our jeep, talked our ears off, and in the end narrowly escaped getting smacked around a little... stories for another time.
The last few days have been full of travel... far too many hours on trains and buses, or waiting for trains or buses. I find that moving around India is yet another reminder of how very spoiled we are for space at home. There are just SO many people here, and it seems that every train car, every bus, is filled to overflowing. It's not unusual (common even) to see two grown men sharing a tiny bunk in the sleeper class compartment, and on the last two buses I was on there were easily more people crammed into the aisle than there were sitting in seats. I'm getting more and more accustomed to not having the "bubble" around me that I do at home, but it's one of those things I think will feel like a shocking difference when I return. Sure we get jostled around from time to time, and occasionally your bus is crowded, but the crush of humanity here is something that is hard to explain. I ended up in the wrong train-ticket line the other morning and I'm not even sure I can describe to you the madhouse scene that overtook the line (of only ladies!) I was in. At one point the woman behind me had worked on of her hands between me and my backpack and was holding tightly to my arm with her other hand just to prevent anyone getting in front of her in line. Imagine my disappointment after 25 minutes of this when I got to the ticket window, flushed, out of breath and sweating, and the ticket agent smiled, shook her head and pointed to her left, "Window 1, please."
At any rate, I think the increase in personal space and regular access to decent public toilets (with TP!) will account for at least half the culture shock I'll experience upon "re-entry". Well, that and not being stared at at every turn. Have I talked about the staring? It's a trip. That's about all I can say. I've had a couple of conversations (with other travelers) about whether or not staring is harassment. I don't think it is, particularly when the "staring behavior" doesn't seem to violate the social/cultural norms in the place you're visiting, but that's not to say it's not uncomfortable. I have looked up from a book while waiting in the train station to find 3 groups of young men stood staring at me from about 6 feet away. There have been train trips where the same person has sat staring for well over an hour. It is sometimes difficult to resist the compulsion to look up and say, "What??!" Which seems inappropriate at best if not completely rude. And it brings up the question of whether or not you want to strike up a conversation with the "starer". It's hard to navigate all the "rules" here. In some ways it feels very similar to when I was in Turkey... I'm never really clear on when it's appropriate to "chat" and when it's not.
As usual, I feel I need to clarify and say that I don't want to imply that *everyone* stares *all the time*. It's not always hard, and there are plenty of sweet, helpful, friendly people all over this country. Like the young kid who jumped up to go check at the enquiry counter last night after an announcement was made about my train that I didn't understand, or the older gentleman who brought oranges to Tracey and I on the bus yesterday and said, "Come. Slake your thirst. You are welcome guests in my country."
The adventure continues. In Jalgoan now and off to see these caves in Ajanta tomorrow. More soon (and hopefully a picture of that tiger!!)
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